Last stop on our vacation was Rio, a city which sounded both invigorating and frightening at the same time. We had allotted 6 days to Rio, mostly due to the scheduling of our tour, and we worried it was too much. (We were right.)

We opted to exhaust pretty much every sight in Rio in a single day – by going on a city tour – partly due to convenience and laziness and mostly due to fear of the city’s reputation (especially after our mugging in Buenos Aires). The city tour was a great way to get around and see some sights so it wasn’t a bad choice. We had more than enough time at most sights such as Christ the Redeemer, the controversial Rio de Janeiro cathedral and Rio Branco Avenue. However, I think it would have been nice to spend an afternoon drinking coffee atop Sugar Loaf mountain while soaking in the amazing views, rather than rush through it like we did.

My biggest to-do in Rio was to see a Bossa Nova concert. We sought out some recommendations – Bossa Nova was surprisingly difficult to find in Rio – and went to Bar do Vinicius, in Ipanema, named after the famed composer/writer Vinicius de Moraes who wrote the lyrics to Girl From Ipanema. We saw two artists, one who played more traditional Bossa nova and the other who had modern, jazzy renditions of Bossa Nova classics.

We walked around Ipanema but it was a bit of letdown because there really wasn’t much there except for some stores, although the beach was nice. Cocacabana didn’t have much to offer either. Rio architecture is quite unimpressive – slabs of concrete – and the most interesting architectural offering is actually in the neighbouring city of Niteroi which houses the Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum designed by famed architect Oscar Niemeyer. It has a futuristic design, like a spaceship, and the interior is completely round, with few edges.

We also visited the Botanical Gardens, which was quite lovely. There were orchids, gigantically tall trees and the ugliest monkeys I have ever seen. (They looked like diseased monkeys in a horror film.)

The most disappointing thing about Rio is it has a dangerous reputation and that can affect the way one travels because we avoided doing certain things to avoid getting hurt. We were nervous to ride cabs, although we did, we were nervous to walk around alone in the night and to visit random neighbourhoods. Cars don’t have to stop at red lights in the night if the path is clear so it can avoid carjackings. I think, however, Rio is not as dangerous as it’s made out to be, but until the city has its drug problems under control, I think its reputation will belie its calm.

Another disappointing aspect of Rio is its price. Everything is quite expensive, except transportation. Prior to our vacation, I did lots of research on hotels and nearly every one had a horrible review despite its high prices. The first hotel was part of our tour and it was disgustingly filthy. The ceiling was rotting and the bedsheets were stained. Our second hotel was much nicer, but no luxury hotel, and it cost $150 US/night.

By the end, we were literally sick and tired, and it was the first time I was ever completely ready to go home during a vacation. Still, I would recommend Rio as a vacation destination but probably for three days rather than the six we had.

More photos:

Jesus is calling the birds to him.

This is the view from atop of Sugarloaf Mountain

We biked around this lake which was a nice leisurely stroll.

I like how green this photo is

Paraty (pronounced Parachee) is a pleasant, colonial town (and a UNESCO heritage site) situated on the Costa Verde which lies on the coastline of Rio de Janeiro state. Its historic centre, in which no cars are allowed, consists of cobblestoned streets and pretty historic buildings.

Although the town is becoming more touristed, I was surprised by the dearth of street vendors which are usually so prevalent in touristy Latin American colonial towns; I only saw one lonely vendor.

The first day was spent walking around the town, eating good food and drinking. The second day, we hired a private boat for our group and went out to the bay. We snorkelled and swam in blue-green water and drank lots of caipirinhas. This was one of the funnest days of our trip and I would highly recommend visiting Paraty.

After Paraty, we ventured out further east to Ilha Grande, a beautiful island, which was the destination I was most excited about visiting in Brazil after Iguazu and it didn’t disappoint. The island is a tranquil oasis and we stayed in a lovely little cabana with hammocks! The beach was pristine and the water was blue and warm.

The night life was reflective of its relaxed atmosphere. We drank more caipirinhas and danced at a samba club. The most disappointing part of staying at Ilha Grande was our stay was not long enough so we couldn’t fully soak in the entire island. Those are the perils of group travel, I supposed.

Iguazu Falls puts Niagara Falls to shame. As a Canadian who has visited the latter numerous times, I feel qualified to say this. While Niagara Falls is surrounded by casinos and fast-food restaurants, Iguazu is surrounded by lush rainforest.

We started on the Brazilian side, which is less impressive, but gives a better panoramic view. We walked around for about an hour or two, but that was more than sufficient.

The next day, we crossed borders to Argentina and I was completely blown away. Iguazu is actually a collection of falls and it’s expansive. We walked around for a good amount time, each step and falls just as impressive as the first. The pathways built were quite impressive as they allow you to get exceptionally close. I wonder if anyone died in the process of building them.

In between the falls, in the mist, there were a bunch of falcons, which we were told, use the bursts of air to make it easier to catch their prey.

I saw at least 10 rainbows, unfortunately no double rainbows!

Visiting Iguazu is an experience I will never forget. There is something beautiful about a large quantity of falling water. Before it reaches the edge, it’s peaceful and beautiful. But when it goes over the edge, there is a rush of power which is not apparent – the calm before the storm.

Earlier this week, Brazilian troops and police raided Rochinha, the largest shantytown in Rio de Janeiro.

When I visited Rio earlier this year, I did a tour of this shantytown (with a company) and it was the highlight of my time in Rio. We learned that monthly rent in a favela goes for about $600 which seems like an insane sum since the average wage is about $400/month and I was paying no more than $800 for a bachelor apartment in the heart of Toronto. The top of the favela is considered the most desirable place to live because it is cleaner, has better access to water and other amenities and is further away from the entrance (where police enter and gunfights happen).

It was amazing to see the favela up close and afar. Walking through Rocinha, you can see the materials people used to build their houses. And from afar, you can see how they really stack on top of each other.

Most of the people living here were just regular people going about their daily lives but there were teenagers patrolling the walkways with guns (working for the drug lords). The favela, while a bit dirty, didn’t actually seem like a horrible place to live. I saw worse living conditions in Laos, but I think because Brazil has such a large disparity between rich and poor, it makes the conditions seem intolerable relative to the lavish lifestyles some people are living.

I hope that the recent events are actually effective and not purely for show. I think favelas are often raided with little or no impact. And hopefully the Olympics will have a positive impact on Brazil’s notoriously bad economic disparity. My local newspaper has an article on Brazil’s rising middle class here.

One of the main reasons I wanted to visit Brazil was my love of its music, especially 60s Bossa Nova. No other music can bring out the same range of emotions out of me.

When I hear the strum of the nylon string guitar, I feel excited and invigorated by the complex harmonies and beats. When I hear Jobim’s piano, I feel calm and pensive. And when I hear Astrud’s fragile voice, I feel a sadness and longing. To me, the music reflects life, altogether complex, difficult and delicate.